Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Southern slabbing

Waves were firing down the South Coast on the weekend. After a pretty detailed check around Sussex, Cudmirrah reef was calling. The shady overcast weather didn't look too inviting at 7am, but with 24 degrees in the water it was like a spa - just a 6ft+ spa. Bombs were pushing down the beach, with a huge inside section. You could make it about half the time, but the other half the thing would just close out. You'd either be  drilled into the sand, or hit the section and be hanging mid air above dry sand. Had about 2 hours on this break with just the 2 off us on it, all the while seeing the reef about 300m away just getting bigger and bigger. Agreeing on the huge paddle we put some speed on to get there - every wave was a mamoth barrel that would spit out into the channel. Getting there we realised how big it was - no word of a lie, 8ft+ things with a girthy lip on it. Scored some of the bigger barrels I've laid into in a fair while. You'd be so deep in it and need to race pretty hard to avoid getting hammered. Wave of the day had to be this 6ft nugget - a late drop had me so deep, glassy face drawing water off to bottom until reef popped up. Still mid barrel, I didn't think I was going to make it, until I was spat out into the channel to sounds of a few guys hooting.Took a step back on some of the bigger sets rolling through - some pushing on 10ft were drawing so hard off this reef, then out of no-where a surfer would drop in and be deep in a stand up barrel. Pretty crazy to watch! It was getting on 3.5hrs we were out there, then the southery hit and blew it apart. Kind of a good thing, we were cramping up bigtime!

Session 2 we headed down to Bawley Point knowing full well that with any wind/ swell direction, somewhere in this place would be pumping. A check at Guilo's looked okay, but 10 guys didn't really appeal. Kept looking south until we got to No Toes - the swell was still building and the bombie was starting to break about 100m out. Again we had the break to ourselves for a while. Some pretty sizey sets were having their way with the bombie. Anything bigger than 8ft was getting too fast - we left that up to the lads towing in. Another 3hr session took a toll on the bodus, had to get some food badly before I died.

Next day the swell was a bit more east and had put on another couple of feet. We checked Sommerset at the crack of dawn, but like alot of the place it was too big and wasn't holding. We left and trekked up the coast to Werrie beach just south of Kiama. Pretty incredible area, huge green hills met the glassy lines pushing through the point. Fun and fast, it was a little smaller than the rest of the area - still 5ft+. Few more people out being a Saturday, but we scored some solid waves, couple of barrels in shore, and some heavy close outs. Ryan got a few massive ones, which he was pretty damn stoked with.

Had no real desire to head back to Sydney, but with the winds picking up, we thought our time could be better spent getting a little pissy. Shorty after, Tequila made its way to the party.

Posted via web from Premium Jam

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