Very ordinary photos, these pics do the wave no justice. It’s day 2 of the new swell and Outer Reef is breaking about 8 foot on the mid tide. An angry angry wave. Getting out there, it was just me and 2 Portuguese boogers.
Hands down one of the craziest sessions I’ve had in a long time. The swell would hit this jagged rock platform sucking about half the wave below sea level. Erupting with a deafening roar, the first section would close out, giving way to the next peak which would draw so hard off the bottom of the reef the water looked like pure glass. Paddling your arse off, it would still be a late drop into a square shaped barrel you could easily fit 2 cars into. No need to stall here. If you wanted to keep the skin on your body, you need to race the hell out of this monster until the spray of water on your head gained intensity and a form ball spat you out into the channel at warp speed. Out there for about 2 hours, I locked into 7 or 8 ridiculous barrels and got hammered once - learned my lesson bigtime. Outers at this size, stick with the bigger sets and waves at the end of the set. I got one of the smaller waves, still a solid size, such a nice shape. Coming out of the barrel and onto what I thought was the channel, a raised my head to see a massive wide one building out the back. One of the Portuguese lads dropped in, lining the wave up sweet, but I had no chance of getting under or around before it broke. Bailing my board I dove deep, tunneling for the bottom, but still got dominated by the mountain of water as it hit me. By the time I’d weathered the onslaught, I was up on dry reef, but escaping with only 1 cut on my leg. Drifting into the shallows while the rest of the set broke, I got my breath back and paddled back out - just in time to watch Portugal number 2 drop in late, lose control and get swallowed into the reef. Tough break son.
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