Thursday, August 26, 2010
Almond tows
Chocolate barrels
You could count on a 2 hour downpour of rain every afternoon as the wet season unleashed on Hermosa. This maintained the waters lovely poo brown colour and texture. The storms also added a new element to the line up. Not only did you have to race sections of the 6-7 foot waves to make the barrel, but you also needed to navigate around and over 10 foot logs that were also trying their hand at surfing.
Monday, August 23, 2010
Playa Hermosa
News of a solid swell had us on a bus for Playa Hermosa. Even though the trip was only 3 hours, nap time set in across the board. Bad idea. Ricky’s bag got taxed while he snoozed with everything in it - including passport. Stoked levels plummeted while the Policia wrote a report, only thing we could do is get to Hermosa stat and treat ourselves to waves.
Cool set up at Hermosa, all the houses and surf hostels are right on the beach - metres away from barrels. Playa Hermosa stretches for about 10km with tones of peaks the whole way up the beach. The more south you go, the more swell it picks up. Crowds aren’t really an issue - if a peak starts to get a few on it, just paddle or walk to the next one. The place has a pretty chilled out vibe but with a mix of locals, seppos who have settled in the place and traveling surfers inhabiting the coastline.